Part 5 - Play Biting

John is an extremely experienced member and trainer of Gun Dogs. Hints, tips and general advice can be found in here which will build into an extremely useful souce of informatation

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LabRes1
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Part 5 - Play Biting

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PART FIVE

Play biting.

Toys play an important part in training so a word about them first. I have what I call “Indoor Toys” and Outdoor Toys” soft toys which are unlikely to break windows or damage furniture and harder rubber toys such as balls which will not get damaged by leaving out in the rain. Toys are not just something we give our dogs to get them off our back for a few minutes. They can be a reward, a way of interacting with our dogs and a training tool as we will see later. A word of warning though. Never give “Human” articles to a puppy as a toy. For example, If you give a puppy an old slipper how is it to know that it must leave your new slipper alone. Both have the smell of your feet on them! Stick to tows which cannot be confused.

The biting of hands causes probably the biggest worry to people new to dogs. “Is my puppy turning viscous?” “Is it going to attack my children?” These are regular questions I hear and all for the most natural thing in the world! The puppies are not doing wrong, they couldn’t! they don’t know wrong! Then have no comprehension of it! Puppies do what they feel like doing. But even that is not the real reason. Most of what puppies do is programmed into their subconscious and that is no more true than with hand biting. Just watch a litter of puppies. Most of their waking life is taken up with exploring or by mouth play with their litter mates. The mouth play is part of their learning curve. Play fighting, learning to equip themselves for the future both for catching their food and defending their pack or young. As I said, the most natural thing in the world!

So how does the puppy know how hard to bite? First of all, he has no intention of hurting. Over a period of time he learns from his littermates and particularly his mother. First off he gets a squeak, (“Ouch”) followed by the flash of teeth, (“DON’T DO IT AGAIN!) and then she would get up and move away, (If your going to do that I’m off!) The bitch would not make contact with her teeth but would leave the puppy in no doubt she was not happy. You can just imagine the puppy’s thoughts, “What ‘d I do then mum?” Over a period of time he would learn to regulate his bite. The problem comes from the fact that we have separated him from his mother and litter mates before he has had a chance to learn that lesson so it is down to us to be teacher! What I do is to give a high pitched (for me anyway!) squeak and quickly (but carefully) remove my hand then I gently take hold of the puppy’s nose (being careful not to hurt it) and say a firm “No” I then give it a toy and ignore the pup for a little while.

As with all training, the correction must be every time without fail! If the puppy bites fifty times in a day the correction must be administered fifty times in a day! Consistent training works, inconsistent training not only fails but breeds apprehension in the puppy. It can’t link the punishment to the crime because sometimes when it does it no one punishes him!

Some dogs will always enjoy holding hands but have learned how to do it. I remember taking a friend’s Flatcoated Retriever, “Star” off of his bench to exercise at a show at the Three Counties Show Ground. “Star” held my hand for the entire walk and during that time I never felt a single tooth.

Next time we’ll look at puppy’s first time out and socialising.
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Glenys
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Post by Glenys »

This is excellent information written for our rescue by John Weller to share with people especially if you are looking to own a dog for the first time or to help with any training you may need with an existing dog.

Also do not forget to ask if there are any questions you would like to put to John in particular I am sure he would be able to advise.
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